Sunday, February 3, 2019

Those pesky cap sleeves!

Writing my first sewing pattern for the Box Top threw up a head scratching moment for me when I came to document exactly how I construct the cap sleeves for my tops.
I use the same method for all my patterns that have this sleeve as an option, a technique I adapted from a method to create a neat finish for a split hem.
It works beautifully for sleeves, with no need for a tricky, fiddly narrow hem on an armhole, and a finish that is like a self bias once it's topstitched.
I've had feedback from a few of you that you find this bit of my patterns a bit hard to follow - and so I'm really happy to try and simplify the method for you with this tutorial here!
Off we go!

Once you've sewn the side seams for your garment, lay the top (or dress) flat on your ironing board, and lift one side of the sleeve seam allowance - described as the turnback in the pattern.




Now fold in this seam allowance/turnback so the fold lines up with the edges of your side seam.



Press into place, flip your garment, and repeat for the other side.



A tip - when you press around the top of the sleeve opening, try opening out the armhole - the seam allowance at the shoulder should fall into place, so you can just press it down. Make sure your shoulder seam allowances are pressed towards the back!

Now, we repeat these steps again, this time the side seam allowance will open.







Press flat, and pop a few pins in to keep your sleeve hem in place, and now you're ready to topstitch in place.







Sit back and admire your work!
 


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